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{ Category Archives } Climbing

rock, ice, snow, ski, board, alpine

X of the year 2013

Climbing: El Chontacoatlan, Taxco del Alarcon, Guerrero, Mexico, Thanksgiving. I sent Mantis, the first pitch of Mala Fama, and Procopio, all third try. Great climbing, fun partners, one of the best trips ever. This is my favorite kind of climbing. Close second: Maple, May and September. Sent ZT and 49, several one-fall burns on Dry […]

Wrong assumptions

So I’ve been catching up on my reading, which is to say, I might have picked up a bit of the breakbone fever down in Taxco. On one of the semi-regular trots to the back of the house, I managed to pluck one of the climbing rags from the stack [1]. The saddest thing is […]

Locals syndrome

  It's not as bad in climbing as it is in surfing (so I hear), but it's still there. I'm going to start a new clothing company with the title NLO – no locals only. On the back it will say “We're all a local somewhere. We all travel everywhere.” I could make dozens, maybe […]

Picture of the day, 21 June 2013


Picture of the day 24 January 2013


Climber hand care – a comprehensive guide

I only recently learned how to take care of my hands, and it has made a huge difference in my climbing. Maybe everyone else already knew this… but I only just got it sussed out. Here's what I've figured out: Anti-hydral. Use as directed. You can of course find more links to its use. I […]

Picture of the day, 17 November 2012

Picture of the day, 30 August 2012


Curry Village will kill you

Something denizens of the Center of the Universe have known for decades.


Nothing like climbing in the sun for a couple of days after busting my ass for weeks. 50 degree weather, a little breeze – perfect to climb in the sun, lizard-mode instead of vampire-mode like we usually do. At one of the best crags in CA, and no one around but us. Dogs get to […]


This morning a squirrel fell out of the tree exactly in the midst of me and two dogs.  We were all surprised enough that he was able to get up and make it up the tree before either of the dogs could grab him.  Swish, THUD, about a foot in front of my face, and […]

Types of fun

Three types of fun: I –  Immediate.   Type I doesn’t mean “without risk”, but it feels really good in the moment without a lot of effort. Examples: Sex.  Chocolate.  Masturbation.  Ice cream.  Beer.  Drugs.  Driving fast. 5.9 hands.  5.11 sport. Wired 12s. II – Delayed.  Can be somewhat fun at times when you’re doing […]

Moving over stone

A lot of times climbing is all Type II kind of fun, if not Type III. Only occasionally Type I [1]. Even the sport climbing, just trying to get better. Driving, doing the same climbs, failing on the same stupid dyno every time, having the same conversations with the same people, over and over. Then […]

Art Morimitsu

“Adventure” pass tossed out

The hated “Adventure” Pass has been largely overruled. I don’t have my stack of tickets anymore, though at one point I got one with the number 100 circled in red on it, my 100th citation, I suppose. And I can’t count the number of times I argued with a ranger about these, and had them […]