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{ Category Archives } Climbing

rock, ice, snow, ski, board, alpine

Bliss + letdown = constant

Climbing makes me happy. Being a position where I have to rely on others to belay me and thus dependent on their flakiness makes me unhappy. I propose, that like the amount of sunlight that any given spot on the earth receives in a year [1], this relationship is bounded on the lower end by […]

Linear relationship between excellence and sociability

The harder I climb, the friendlier people are to me. Below V5/5.12, I’m invisible. Above that, people start talking to me out of the blue. I’m pretty sure my RBF is the same above and below. Same thing happened when I was running sub-55s 400m and sub-7 miles.

If it weren’t for rocks, we’d all be surfers

This person would be an awesome climber. She gets it. I don’t surf. I wish I did, but I grew up on the ocean of the Great Plains. Climbing is like this. Maybe moreso. Everyone fails, all the time. If you aren’t failing, you aren’t trying hard enough. Unless you are Adam Ondra or Alex […]

Climbing skin product review 2016

Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Hand: Insanely expensive, but really good, and really odor free. On the other hand, an 8 oz tube will last years. Be careful to get the right thing, there are lots of knockoffs and different versions and small tubes sold for full price. This is nice if you don’t want to […]

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Flyover territory

How is it possible to have a West Coast tour that goes to San Diego and SF, but doesn’t stop in LA? I mean, LA went from having basically no gyms [1] to having about 15 [2], including one listed as one of the best in the US in a recent climbing rag [3]. If […]

Stainless

Shoelaces

In my distant youth, we used to wear an onion on our belt, as that was the style at the time. We also used to buy extra shoelaces, because they broke all the time. We had a drawer full of shoelaces of different colors and lengths, along with the shoe polish kit. Like modern cars […]

Away

I’ve been off climbing in one of my favorite places in the world. I might have some pix – I haven’t uploaded them yet to see, but given that it was pretty cloudy and wet and I was with someone who was completely and actively uninterested in my desire to make art, I didn’t take […]

Of the year 2014

For me, 2014 was the year of the Mountain Goats. It’s what I’ve been listening to, and was the best concert of the year for me. I did one Mexico trip (also one the fall before) and two Maple trips, spring and fall. Also the Cathedral near St. George. Locally, I spent most of the […]

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POTD 8 Feb 2015

Sent

Saturday, I sent my most recent project. I’m not bragging, just setting this up. It’s easy for most of the people I climb around, and hard for some. Including me. Everyone sends something sometime or we’d all hang it up and go surfing. Last weekend I tried it six times, and it was hard, hard, […]

X of the year 2013

Climbing: El Chontacoatlan, Taxco del Alarcon, Guerrero, Mexico, Thanksgiving. I sent Mantis, the first pitch of Mala Fama, and Procopio, all third try. Great climbing, fun partners, one of the best trips ever. This is my favorite kind of climbing. Close second: Maple, May and September. Sent ZT and 49, several one-fall burns on Dry […]

Wrong assumptions

So I’ve been catching up on my reading, which is to say, I might have picked up a bit of the breakbone fever down in Taxco. On one of the semi-regular trots to the back of the house, I managed to pluck one of the climbing rags from the stack [1]. The saddest thing is […]

Locals syndrome

  It's not as bad in climbing as it is in surfing (so I hear), but it's still there. I'm going to start a new clothing company with the title NLO – no locals only. On the back it will say “We're all a local somewhere. We all travel everywhere.” I could make dozens, maybe […]

Picture of the day, 21 June 2013