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Sent

Saturday, I sent my most recent project. I’m not bragging, just setting this up. It’s easy for most of the people I climb around, and hard for some. Including me. Everyone sends something sometime or we’d all hang it up and go surfing.

Last weekend I tried it six times, and it was hard, hard, hard, hard, hard, and hard. I couldn’t do it. Couldn’t make the last clip, couldn’t make myself climb above the last clip, couldn’t pull the crux move at the last clip, couldn’t make myself skip the last clip, no one else’s beta worked for me at the last clip [1], got pumped at the last clip. Et cetera. The crux is at the top, could you tell?

Then all of a sudden, it was easy. I warmed up and did it, and I knew I was going to do it when I pulled my shoes on. I could have botched it and fallen, but I didn’t have that feeling. I don’t know why, because the last time I was on it, I was trying really hard (ask the witnesses!), and still… couldn’t do it.

I’m not any stronger than I was last weekend. Maybe a bit lighter (I didn’t step on a scale). The conditions were slightly better – perfect to be exact, but last weekend wasn’t bad. I didn’t train specifically. Didn’t obsess. Didn’t visualize. Just ran and biked and spent about three hours on the climbing wall, along with a couple of PT sessions in the gym.

And six days farther into the decline.

Yet it went from hard to easy. From screaming at the top of my lungs and falling off [2], taking big whips, to utterly casual. Maybe a grunt or two, but it felt easy.

What changed? It had to be mental. Something in the mind, something mental, just clicked over, and what was hard was now not. Like understanding a mathematical concept, or one of those color-blindness tests; once the neurons click, you can’t unsee it.

The real trick is, how do you go immediately to that state? There must be a way. Ondra, Sharma, Megos (and similar experts in other fields – music, science spring to mind), immediately see the flow and the consequence. How do you train yourself to get there immediately without the intermediate frustration state?

10000 hours, I suppose… but there must be a mental switch that’s accessible, because in 25 years of climbing, I must have the hours in at this point. A mystery.

 

[1] Thanks, Vincent, for the key beta in the bottom crux. Even though he, and no one else, does it the way I do it, Vincent saw the flaw in my sequence and pointed out an improvement, taking it from 50% success to 100%. The top crux sequence is all mine, and probably nowhere near 100%, but you only have to do it once for the send.

 

[2] Taking a big whip while falling off trying is A Good Thing.

Go figure

For all the billions we dump into intelligence gathering on friend, enemy, and citizen, and basically anyone with email or a phone, for all the pissing done on the 4th Amendment, the whole ISIL/ISIS crisis in Iraq seems to have been a complete surprise to our political masters.

Perhaps they’re too busy spying on Congress to actually gather intelligence about real threats.

Of course, Congress is no real threat. They know that the TLAs know where the bodies are buried, and they better keep their traps shut, and oversight committees a farce, unless they want the real stuff coming out from an unnamed source.

Picture of the day, 10 August 2014

PAW2014

Picture of the day, 9 Aug 2014

rb sunset

No worries, it’s all good

Much like in Gulf War I, when we were looking for WMDs that we sold to Iraq during their war with Iran; in Gulf War III, we’re destroying weapons we gave to Iraq after Mission Accomplished in Gulf War II.

It’s just the circle of life — if you’re a defense contractor. After all, someone is going to have to sell the new Syrian/Iraq ISIS caliphate the replacements for the weapons being destroyed now. Those F-35s don’t move themselves. Actually they don’t move at all and I’m sure we’ll be looking for suckers^Wclients to offload them on.

Shocked

I'm shocked, shocked, I tell you, that the person responsible for black prisons, enhanced interrogation techniques, extraordinary rendition, and the destruction of evidence would stoop so low as to spy on Congress.

He is, after all, a person of moral rectitude.

Three guesses whether anyone will lose their job or be prosecuted for this, much less go to jail.

Burned

The real reason behind the increasing pressure for laws mandating cell phone kill switches? It's not stemming a wave of crime. The real thing it's killing is burners. If you have to have the ability to shut down a phone remotely, then you have to be able to identify who can shut it down. So no more anonymity will be possible on cell phones.

That's why prosecutors and LEOs are behind it. Not because they give a shit about your stolen phone. Try turning in a police report about that, and you'll get laughed out of the station. I've been rear-ended, witnessed hit-and-runs, been the victim of a bike/car hit-and-run, and reported break-ins, with zero police response – they couldn't even be bothered to show up. You think they care about your iPhone? They do care that you might be able to communicate anonymously. These laws will be the end of that.

In one door, out the other

Microsoft lays off 18000.

In other news, Microsoft sponsors 19972 H1B (and other) visa employees between 2011 and 2013.

I’m sure it’s just coincidence the two numbers are so close.

Scenic route?

Someone is developing an algorithm that finds not the shortest, or quickest, or cheapest route, but the most scenic. But what I want, having been burned twice in the last month by LA traffic construction, is one that lets you rule out routes. “Siri. The 5 North is closed. Find a way to get me back on it north of the 22. That doesn’t involve driving on the 5.”

Yes, the maps algorithms let you choose alternate routes, but the alternates are very limited, and there are lots of places where there is one freeway, and Google or Apple or Waze or Mapquest or whoever is going to route you on that, no matter what you do. And if it’s closed, well, too bad for you. As you drive around, pulling out your two-decade old copy of the Thomas Guide, Siri will just be telling you to make a series of u-turns to get onto entrances that are blocked.

Taste

People are always telling me how great Van Morrison is, but invariably the folks who choose VM on the jukebox always choose Steve Miller next. So I ain't buying it.

Totally predictable

Corporations are people, as are unborn fetii – women, not so much. Sorry about that.

This then is totally predictable:

“We’re not opposed to the practice of protecting and celebrating life set forth by your quaint, human Biblical standards,” said Ullman last week on Lou Dobbs Tonight. “But JCPenney is not that sort of company, for in his house at R’lyeh, dead Cthulhu waits dreaming. We see through the insignificance of your primitive ape society to the coming storm of insanity that is His rise.”

Autobahn

It was very pleasant driving around Utah [1]. As you drive from CA to NV to AZ to UT, the speed limits keep increasing, kinda like this:

606px-Human_evolution_scheme.svg

Mostly, it seems like the speed limits increasingly reflect reality as one drives north, like waking from the (very different) dream worlds of CA (cool sunshine) and NV (neon lights) and into the hard light of Utah (crazy AM talk radio and country-pop music). Increasing distances between NPR and LTE.

After you clear the I-15/215 merge above Rancho Cucamonga [2] into HST territory, traffic is largely going 80 anyway, and lots of times creeping to 90. Straight roads, visibility for miles, not a lot of traffic, especially after Vegas, why not?

The only danger is being a victim of revenue enhancement. The speeds don’t change, the highways don’t change, the cars don’t change, the drivers don’t change. The laws do, and inversely, the size of the ticket you’re going to get, which seems the only limiting factor. If the laws don’t reflect the way drivers vote with their feet, then everyone is a criminal.

People drive as fast as they feel safe, no matter the limit, and 80 from RC to SLC seems pretty safe. The Utah speed limit is just marking to market.

Coming home – devolution. The graphic in reverse. The speeds don’t change, but the anxiety level does.

[1] Except for that time I was driving a rental car and basically got pulled over have Jersey plates. No ticket though, so I guess – win? Cops are like doctors – the best you can hope for in any interaction is to come out the same as you went in.

[2] Best said in a Bugs Bunny voice.

Throw

I was driving around central Utah, and there’s pretty much nothing but C&W and crazy talk radio, so I tried a bit of both. First, country pretty much sounds like auto-tuned KISS pop to me (and KROQ plays a lot of music that sounds like what used to be on KISS).

Anyway, there’s not a lot of Faron Young DNA left there. Alt-country/punk (John Doe, X, the Blasters, fer crissakes), seem more country than anything I hear on a radio station.

More interesting to me is the party song on heavy rotation, Drink to That All Night, which has the lyric

That’s the kind of party that makes you throw up your hands up high

Compared to Lorde:

I’m kind of over gettin’ told to throw my hands up in the air.
So there

Quote of the day, 12 June 2014

“Again: as the profound calm which only apparently precedes and prophesies of the storm, is perhaps more awful than the storm itself; for, indeed, the calm is but the wrapper and envelope of the storm; and contains it in itself, as the seemingly harmless rifle holds the fatal powder, and the ball, and the explosion; so the graceful repose of the line, as it silently serpentines about the oarsmen before being brought into actual play—this is a thing which carries more of true terror than any other aspect of this dangerous affair.

“But why say more? All men live enveloped in whale-lines. All are born with halters round their necks; but it is only when caught in the swift, sudden turn of death, that mortals realize the silent, subtle, ever-present perils of life. And if you be a philosopher, though seated in the whale-boat, you would not at heart feel one whit more of terror, than though seated before your evening fire with a poker, and not a harpoon, by your side.”

— “Moby Dick, or, The Whale”, Herman Melville

The next question

Once again, the failure of the MSM in general, and NPR in particular, in the simplest sense of not asking the next question. The obvious question.

NPR is running a series on what one might find out about someone if they eavesdropped on them. Like, say, the NSA has been doing to the whole world. So one of their reporters has let someone else monitor his communications with similar tools – except he gets to unplug them if he's doing something embarrassing – I don't remember getting that option from the NSA.

At the end, there's this:

[Carrie Cordero] says because I am a U.S. citizen, the only way the intelligence community could collect my data is with an order from the Foreign Intelligence Surveillance Court, known as FISA. From the beginning of the Snowden affair, the NSA has insisted that all of this collection has been done from within a pre-existing legal framework. Roughly, it works this way:

If you're living abroad and you're not a citizen of the United States, the NSA has a great deal of freedom to try to collect and analyze your data. If you're doing business with a U.S. company or using a U.S.-based service, any kind of bulk collection program has to be approved by the U.S. attorney general. If you're in the U.S. or are a U.S. citizen, no matter where you are in the world, this kind of collection is supposed to be subject to a FISA court order.

But it stops there. It doesn't mention that basically the FISA court basically never turns down a request from the NSA. And doesn't mention that even the toothless FISA court has threatened to sanction the NSA for ignoring the toothless procedures that are in place. And that basically the Obama and Bush administration have set up programs that completely circumvent the FISA court. And that there is no adversarial process, so it's not really a legal proceeding in the Perry Mason sense (Law and Order? Perry Mason is getting a bit stale – I don't think even I ever saw the first run of one of those, just reruns).

NPR just leaves it there, as though the FISA court was some protection of your rights. When your only protection is that probably the NSA is not interested in you. But that's a sad way to live your life, hoping that you never become interesting enough to be interested in. And it seems like you've already lost if that's how you're moving through life.

But the NSA isn't really designed to prevent anything. It's a Cardinal Richelieu machine, designed to find the six lines it can use to hang you.